The Best Compound Bows

Complete Comparisons and Reviews

Aiming With Assistance: When Hunting Gadgets Go Too Far

by thehoth

hunting gadgets

The march of societal progress often follows the march of progress in technology. Cries of outrage and concern accompany each advancement in tech. The line of how far is too far for hunting gadgets faces heated debate.

Let’s break down the issues and the upsides. On the positive, hunting popularity has increased in line with accessibility to the sport. The more people that can hunt, the more that do.

The richness of competition also doesn’t degrade because of new technology. That some people will use gear to accomplish what someone else can do with skill takes away nothing. 

If you are the one with the skill you can excel either way. Of course, it isn’t quite that simple and not all changes provide performance advantages. Many pieces of gear are about comfort and accessibility.

Hunting as Sport

To be clear, this article discusses hunting as a sport. When it comes to hunting for subsistence the virtue is to succeed. As long as the process doesn’t destroy the animal herds or the animals meant for harvest, anything goes. 

We don’t live in the kind of scarcity society where hunting for food needs to be that grim. Most hunting is done for the sport and ethical hunters use their kills for more than a trophy.

Ethics

Ethical hunting practices come in two forms. The first is protecting the hunt for future generations. This includes not taking more game than can replenish. It also includes not ruining the environment which forces out animals.

The second set of ethics is about reasonable rules for the sport. Using the wrong weapon in a category is dangerous and irresponsible. Spotlighting and other night hunting practices have long been frowned upon or made illegal.

Enjoyment

Hunting is about enjoyment. There is a thrill to the chase, the grace of taking aim, and the thrill of a well-placed hit. 

While standing in the rain for a few hours might be necessary to achieve any of the above three, it isn’t exactly comfortable. Gear and tech that keeps the rain off and the body warm isn’t unsporting, it is simply not masochistic. 

Inclusion

Hunting technology also allows more people to engage in the sport. Women and youths get more involved with technology lowering the physical bar to access. 

Not everyone can be accommodated – hunting is still a physical activity. It requires some amount of strength, endurance, and know-how. However, it is nice to let people achieve without strict limitations. 

The following lists of technology explore how each fits into these three rubrics. A device that provides none of these is a device that goes too far. In the wrong hands, anything can be abused, the point is to establish a reasonable bar for what can still be counted as hunting.

Bow Tech

We’ll start with a review of the improvements and changes to the bow itself.

Part of the enjoyment of bow hunting comes from the skills needed to succeed with the weapon. To use it effectively, it requires a dedication to a whole set of skills involving getting within range of a target. We’ll explore that next. 

Check your local state requirements or a quick list like the one here to see what gear restrictions may apply. 

As for the bow itself, since the 1970s, the compound bow has gone through rapid advances. Some of these provide more power, others more accuracy and still others create opportunities to improve range and impact.

Arrow Rests

An often overlooked but significant advancement brought about by compound bows is the arrow rest. The cut-outs in a modern riser allow arrows to avoid the wobble that so engrosses physicists. 

Arrow rests create a burst of short-range accuracy, certainly, but their real virtue is in shots over 40 yards. Competing with the wobble of an arrow and the gravity drop made shots beyond 30 yards difficult.

Statistics show that accuracy drops off after 20 yards and reaches into the 1 percentile at 50 and beyond.

Arrow rests change a component of the arrow physics but doesn’t challenge ethics or accessibility of hunting. Some purists are certain to point out it takes less skill but nobody would say it negates skill or enjoyment.

Sights

Sighting on bows presents a more difficult issue. Part of this is the range of different sights that exist. While most bows use pins or notches, some use scopes. A scope on a bow starts into a contested area. 

Pins

Most hunters use pins set at 10-40 yards in iterations of 5-10 yards each. This allows you to aim and calculate gravity drop visually.

In the past, notches or pins had to be added and moved manually. Newer systems employ computer applications to measure and inform adjustments automatically. 

Pins create no ethical or enjoyment changes to hunting. The automatic versions are great for saving time, which makes them good for accessibility. 

Scopes

A bow with a scope runs into rules denoting it as a crossbow. Largely, the restriction in the field of view creates an issue and magnification shouldn’t be needed. A bow doesn’t shoot beyond what you can see with the naked eye.

As for adding in lights or rangefinders into the scope, these are discouraged on sporting grounds to prevent abuse. 

Rangefinders

Rangefinders close the loop in the “cheat” that sights create. No point in having pins meticulously set if you don’t know how far away the target is. 

Rangefinders make setting pins easier and also setting up a shot simple. 

Again, purists have a complaint about skill versus shortcuts that can be valid. The enjoyment of a perfectly placed shot goes up when one does the calculations without aid. For those with issues of depth perception, it creates an artificial barrier. 

As long as the rangefinder doesn’t allow low-light or night targeting, there isn’t anything ethically wrong with them. 

New Arrows

The crafting and ability of arrows reflect a sharp increase in functionality over the last 30 years.

Arrow changes are not negligible to the sport of hunting. The wrong arrow for the wrong game spoils meat, creates wounding and bleeding issues, and creates waste.

Heads

Newer broadhead designs, for example, don’t work at shorter ranges. The fins need to fly 20 or more yards to open for impact. This shapes the trajectory and acts to create more efficient kill shots.

Tagging and practice heads have become common for different purposes.

Heads should be rated for the animal being harvested. Too large will destroy the meat. Too small will wound without much chance to kill. 

Shafts

The widths of shafts have gone from ‘whatever’ to very specific. You need the right arrow width for your bow draw and let off to prevent buckling and to carry the force adequately. 

Fletchings should be colored to prevent being lost in the underbrush. Collecting arrows saves money and prevents injury to hikers and scavenger animals. 

Bow Design

Changes to the shape and size of bows while upping or maintaining performance is the single biggest tech focused on inclusion. Ease of use and durability of materials are basic concepts in the evolution from recurve to compound bows.

In shopping for a bow, the modern hunter has the option to change their draw-length, limb height, draw weight, and let-off velocity. 

Each of these once came at the expense of one or more other qualities. This is where technology does its best work.

The enjoyment of a hunt can be tuned as well. Nobody is stopping you from using a single shaft longbow or self-bow. The modern compounds bring more people into the sport without restricting or emoving anyone else. 

Draw Weight and Force Magnifiers

There are limits to the allowable maxes on force magnifiers. Part of this restriction is about harm to the animal. Blowing an arrow straight through a target may be cool, but does little to kill ethically. We discuss more on draw weight here.

Force magnification limits also exist to prevent adverse risk to hunters. Tune a bow high enough and you risk it snapping in places under load. 

Hunting Gadgets

Now that we have the weapon out of the way, let’s discuss the periphery gadgets that make hunting easier or more tolerable.

These devices don’t change hunting practices in a fundamental way. These all modernize techniques and ideas that hunters employed for millennia. 

The question with these is less about inclusion and ethics and more sportsmanship. The fuzzy line starts to appear as more and more hunting is done without the hunter involved.

That slippery slope is where the sport of hunting gives way to being a game of the best toy wins. 

Scent Control

Every hunter knows that getting noticed by the prey animal leads to failure. Camouflage is so ubiquitous for this purpose that it isn’t even included as technology. 

Hunters have worn leaves and bark or hidden in the grass, up in a tree, or stood very still since hunting was a thing.

The bigger tech advances have been in how to mask smells. 

Sprays

Chemical concoctions designed to maks smells by covering it with something else. Many of thee use pheromones from other animals to cover up the human smell. 

Some go so far as to entice by using sex pheromones to bring in target animals. 

The earliest versions were little more than scent gland secretions or urinary byproducts. Modern versions use a lab to carefully create something that animals will smell more than humans.

Outside of allergic reactions, sprays make the user suffer as much as they help.

Sprays that attract animals are not always permissible in every state or hunt. They fall into the category of bait.

Ozone Machines

These new mechanical marvels do almost the opposite of sprays. Instead of covering up the human smell with a familiar smell, they delete smells altogether. 

Ozone bonds with other fluorocarbons easily. Most odors have a fluorocarbon component that will bind and be removed. This is the basic idea behind ‘odor eliminating’ cleaning products.

Aside from creating more battery waste, ozone machines don’t create environmental issues. In general, they are an overpriced solution to a half-existant problem. 

For hunters looking for up-close shots in high traffic areas, they make sense. Otherwise, you are better off being higher up and picking more isolated targets. 

Trail Cameras

Scouting out animals feeding patterns and migration routes was once a lengthy practice. It required a lot of time and a team of like-minded hunters helped it along. 

However, as hunting seasons shrink other methods become necessary. Studies on hunting season length focus on animals harvested, not the timing of harvest. Hunters can use the non-season time to scout but doing so is difficult for working people.

Trail cameras let a hunter scout and gather data without needing to be in the forest. Hunters have to collect and download trail cameras but some upload remotely.

Tech of this sort allows some hunters to participate in hunts in a more visceral way than they would be able to.

As for ethics and enjoyment? Given the choice between seeing animals on camera or being out there themselves, most hunters would pick the forest.

Tracking Devices

Trackers, usually fired from a low impact arrow that will catch with only slight wounding are the devices that cross the fuzzy line. 

A tracking device on a proper broadhead made to kill provides a faster way to track down a wounded animal and finish the hunt. This saves the animal suffering and lowers the number of wounded animals that get reported each season.

Smaller load trackers create a real problem. These trackers are used to simply tag an animal from a distance and then track it for a better shot. 

Tracking creates a larger ethical question about leaving a wounded animal in general. It is better to find an animal than to abandon it. This is especially true when given the perspective that hunting is about population control.

Wounded and unclaimed animals throw off control numbers in addition to the suffering they cause. 

Hone Your Skills

Now a better idea about what cool hunting gear is out there and how they bear weight on the sport. Hunting gadgets should increase the enjoyment and make the sport accessible for all. What they shouldn’t do is give unfair advantages and exploits.

To learn more about bowhunting gear and contact us for more information.

Filed Under: Compound Bow Tagged With: hunting gadgets

Archery Strength Training: 7 of the Best Exercises to Improve Archery Form

by thehoth

archery strength training

Every sport has its own work-out regime. Archery is an activity that requires a great deal of strength, but not big muscles like a football linebacker.

The truth is, it’s one of those rare sports that are really about mental toughness.

Being able to steady the bow and focus on the target is what the archer is aiming for. Building those skills requires archery strength training. It just isn’t the type of muscle building training most people think about.

When designing a workout regimen your focus needs to be on developing muscles that will help with body control. Working on core muscles help with stability and hitting your target. Each body part working together will improve the consistency of your shots. 

The best archers incorporate strength training, yoga and a lot of practice to raise their skill levels. Finding a balance between the three will give you great results.

Interested in the best exercises for archery? Continue reading for 10 of the best exercises to improve archery form.

Archery Strength Training for the Novice and Pro

Archery is a fun sport that anyone can enjoy. Some people do it for enjoyment because it is a great way to unwind after a long week.

Some use it for hunting, while others make a career of it by becoming professional archers.

Whichever reason you take up the sport you will want to be proficient at it. It is also wise to consider injuries that can occur if you are not using the correct posture or muscles.

Part of training is so you can maintain your ability to draw back the bow so the arrow can reach the intended target.

All in all, you can improve your overall health, burn off some fat, and tone your body. It will also help you with concentration. That is a skill you can use at work and in school.

Mental Toughness

Like tennis, archery is a sport that relies heavily on mental toughness.

This is the ability to remain resilient in the toughest circumstances. People that master mental toughness have a huge advantage because they realize they are not competing against others, but against their own inhibitions.

A competitor has to have the ability to drown out noises and other distractions.

Allowing your nerves to get the best of you is a sure fire way to lose focus and miss your target. Once doubt enters the mind, stress levels increase and a mental battle ensues.

Here are a few exercises to help you sharpen your focus and drown out what’s happening around you.

1. Know Your Weaknesses

The quickest way to address a problem is to come to terms with its existence. Understanding the things that are keeping you from achieving your goals is the first step to overcoming them. 

NBA Player Shaquille O’Neal was horrible when it came to shooting free throws.

Knowing this was his weakness he had two choices. One, avoid getting fouled and being sent to the free-throw line. Two, put more time into practicing free throws.

Not dealing with a weak point in your technique only causes additional stress. Visualize yourself taking the perfect stance and going through every motion to hit the target.

Focus less on your actual movements until it becomes second nature.

2. Learn to Reset Quickly

Having a rest routine helps you to refocus quickly when you miss your mark. Let’s go back to the game of tennis. If you watch the greatest players in the game you will notice they all have a routine to reset and refocus quickly. 

Maria Sharapova turns and walks towards the wall, pauses for a second and then does a signature stutter step. This signifies she has refocused.

Novak Djokovic meticulously bounces the ball 30 plus times before serving.

In Archery, you can develop your own short routine to help you refocus before taking your next shop. Whatever you come up with, make it your go-to before you start second guessing yourself. In those brief seconds give yourself a positive affirmation.

Remember, your technique is what you’ve worked on in practice. The middle of the competition isn’t the time to try and tweak your motions.

3. Get Mentally Tough by Controlling Distractions

Working on being mentally tough is one of the best exercises for archery because where the mind goes the body will follow. Set up your practice sessions to include drills to help you ignore distractions.

These include random sounds like a phone ringing, a car horn blowing, an alarm going off, and people talking or laughing.

Learn to shoot threw random disruptive noises. Teach yourself to pause and take a deep breath instead of reacting or responding. Don’t turn in the direction or seek-out the offending party. Just take a deep breath and reset.

Another tip is to have a go-to phrase. Some people take a breath and as they exhale exclaim “Woosah” to regain their composure. You can say or think of something or someone you love. 

There is also the technique of thought stopping. This is where you immediately tell yourself to stop a negative behavior by either saying stop or envisioning a stop light or stop sign.

Muscle Strengthening

For anyone that has suffered an injury pulling back on a bow, you know it can do damage to your muscles. Having a good archery workout can help reduce injuries.

The bulk of the strength needed for archery comes from the upper body. This doesn’t mean you ignore your lower body. Focusing on the upper body help condition the muscles needed to draw the bow back.

Archery strength training also helps with maintaining the position of the bow so you can hit your target with precision. Lacking the strength to work the bow can also affect your stamina.

Being able to breathe correctly and get oxygen to your muscles is a result of good conditioning.

Weights, Reps, and Sets

Before creating your workout plan there are three things you need to keep in mind. The workout needs to include weights, reps, and sets.

Only use enough weight to create resistance. You are not a body-builder so there is no need to have 50 or 100 lb. weights. You are not trying to build your muscles, just strengthen them.

Reps and sets are the number of times you will do each exercise. You can do five sets of an exercise, with each set including 10 repetitions.

The exercises listed below do not require a gym membership, fitness trainer, or a lot of equipment. All you need is about 30 minutes and a commitment to the process.

1. Push-ups

Traditional push-ups can be done anywhere you have enough space to stretch out on the floor. The only equipment you may want is a towel or yoga mat to place on the floor, but that’s optional. 

Push-ups will strengthen your triceps and works towards building your core muscles for balance. There are two ways to do push-ups based on whether you are a man or woman.

A lot of women have no problem doing the standard push-up that men do. 

Archers can choose to do a standard position with the elbows pointing backward, or they can try with the elbows pointing out. The outward position will reduce the stress on the shoulders.

Bend your elbows to lower your torso until your chest is almost touching the ground. Count to three and then raise the torso back up by pushing upward and straightening the arms. Do not lock the elbows when the body is raised.

2. Planks

There are at least 20 ways to do a plank. No matter which method you choose, it forces you to stabilize your body. Because you will be placing pressure on your forearms and elbows, a yoga mat is recommended.

For a standard fore-arm plank to strengthen your core muscles lie flat on the floor, face down. Spread your legs until your feet are waist-length apart and you are supported on your toes.

Clasp your hands together and raise your body, resting on your forearms arms and elbow.

Your elbows will be shoulder length apart, and your body straight.

Contract your abdominal muscles and hold the position for a minimum of one minute. Challenge yourself to increase the time with each set.

3. Pull-ups and Chin-ups

Unless you have a very sturdy bar in your home or yard you may have to go to a local park for these exercises. A flick of the wrist is the difference between a pull-up and a chin-up.

With a pull-up, the palm of the hand is face out when you drip the bar, and with a chin-up, the palm is facing in.

Both exercises work the bicep muscles, but a pull-up will put more emphasis on the back.

Place your hands around the bar and ensure they are a shoulder-width apart. Pull yourself up until your chin passes the bar. Hold the position and count off a few seconds before lowering yourself back down.

Typically the bar will be at least an arm’s reach above you. If you are working with a lower bar, you will need to bend your knees and cross your ankles so you are not touching the ground during your reps.

4. Bicep Curl and Hold

Bicep curls and holds is another exercise that has multiple variations. For the archer, it is recommended that you do bicep curls and bicep holds. Both will require dumbbells at a weight you are comfortable with.

Remember, you are not trying to build muscle. Five to ten lbs. is a good weight to start with.

For the bicep curl start in a standing position.

With dumbbells in hand, turn your hands with the palms facing away from the body. Keep your arms close your sides and then lift the weights by bending the elbow and bringing the weights up to your shoulders.

You can also do reps with the palms of your hands facing inward.

For bicep holds, start with arms straight and by our sides.

Extend the arms outward at shoulder height. Pause for a few seconds and lower the arms. You can also do reps extending the arms out in front of the body.

5. Bench Dips

Bench dips work your triceps, pecs and anterior deltoids. They are a quick and simple exercise that only requires a sturdy surface the height of a bench or chair.

Sit down on the structure placing your hands palm-down next to your hips.

Extend your legs out and shift forward until your buttocks are clear of the bench. Lower your body down a few inches, pausing, and then raise back-up. Your elbows will be slightly bent.

Only return to the seated position between reps and sets. 

6. Specific Physical Training (SPT)

SPT is designed specifically for archers. It is believed to be the best exercises for archery. Popular exercises include the use of stretch bands to mimic the motion of drawing a bow.

The exercises will be customized to fit the level of the Archer. Whether you are a beginner or pro, you can build an SPT program tailored to your skill level.

7. Bow Draw and Hold

This last tip comes into play after you have worked on your upper body muscles to build your core strength. They involve working with your actual bow. Three popular exercises are the power, flexibility, and the bow raise. 

Depending on the technique you may or may not use an arrow.

The goal is to help the archer build, strength, power, endurance, and expansion. Each exercise involves pulling back your draw length and holding the position without releasing the arrow.   

Are You Ready to Get Your Archery Game On?

You will find that archery is a great sport whether you’re playing for fun or have goals of entering competitions. Now that you have archery strength training tips it’s time to get take your game to the next level.

Get a few friends to join you on the journey.

Once you reach your desired level of mental and physical it’s time to shop for bows. Click here for an introduction to compound bow shooting.

 

Filed Under: Compound Bow Tagged With: archery strength training

From Past to Present: The Full Evolution of Compound Bows and Archery

by thehoth

The imminent sportsman Teddy Roosevelt believed hunting was vital. Not just for humans but for the animals as well. Hunting, as a practice, allows both man and nature to sharpen each other.

The evolution of devices and techniques through time have given man a superior edge in hunting. That said, it has also helped the animals. 

Recent studies show an overall reduction in wounding rates. This comes from a combination of technique and especially the force of modern compound bows.

Changes in bow technology have been slow coming but steady. Always steps forward with no tech lost. Outside of the sword, no other weapon has inspired as much artistry and skill. 

Compound Bows Step by Step

Several factors have contributed to the continuing evolution of the bow. New strides are taken today even after the invention of other projectile weapons. One is the expansion of human ability. 

The visceral nature of taking aim and following through to deliver a blow promotes something primal in us. This is true across all martial arts. The Japanese art of Kyudo and the Native American improvements of the atlatl exemplify this pursuit.

The history of ranged weaponry fascinates generations who go back to retrace the steps. Mechanical engineers frequently use bow tech as am metaphor.

Modern bow advancements have cropped up for the second reason, broader audience. While hunting may still be seen as a strictly manly affair, increasingly women and teens get involved. The hunt has become a family affair with many participants. 

This guide will walk through the steps of the bow as a projectile weapon. We’ll start in the distant past when the shape had not yet come together. Then we’ll move into the middle ages and beyond to the modern mass-produced items.

Along each step, we’ll discuss what was learned from the past iterations and show the trajectory of the next advancement. After reading this guide, you might find yourself discovering the next great advancement.

Primal Bows

Before the wheel stole all the glory, the most important human inventions were about survival. In the world of weaponry, the hierarchy was sharper followed by longer. 

Spears gave way to spear throwers. The atlatl was the most effective of the spear throwers. It worked through a process of centripetal and centrifugal force. In this way, it resembles a sling almost more than a bow.

While the Anasazi tribes are widely known from making the best atlatls, they were also discovered earlier in France. Early Franc tribes discovered that it takes a lot less work to huck a spear at something than to run after it.

The other alternative, particularly in boar hunting, was to guide the beast to a narrow location. This required many hunters and some planning to execute well.

With an atlatl, a lone hunter could do the work of a whole tribe. This greatly increased food supplies. 

Hunting more dangerous game was another contributing factor. Wounding a bear or wildcat before it could close distance would slow it down and give hunters more of a chance to escape the predator or kill it. 

What We Learned

The atlatl is different enough from modern archery to create a split. The angular momentum goes out the window once you start pushing the projectile from behind. The atlatl prompted thought into the release point that made this possible.

Springier wood or wood that could quickly snap from a rubbery form into a rigid one delivered more force. The American Southwest provided better materials for this advancement than areas of France.

A strong, direct release force could move a projectile faster. Removing the perpendicular movement allowed a hunter to spare energy and work in tighter spaces.

The First Bows

The first bows appear in 3000 BCE in Egypt. While spear points and arrowheads date back to 20,000 BCE, it is unknown what they attached to. 

This definitive step in bow evolution produced low-powered but recognizable weapons. Materials used for bows differ greatly in the earliest incarnations.

What didn’t vary was the construction. Bows made of single staves, rather than multiple kinds of wood bound, were most common. Binding along the grip provided comfort and kept the bow from breaking.

These early bow designs, known as “self-bows” were thin at the grip and wider at the limbs. They also used a shaping process that made the front facing side flat. The rear of the bow was rounded.

These bows had estimated draw weighs under 50 pounds and flight distances of up to 150 yards.

The strings were made of animal sinew or plant fibers. In Europe, these would be reinforced with beeswax. In areas such as Egypt, beetle-based insect glues were used.

The Americas used sap resins. These bits of sticky material kept the string from drying out and also provided a tackiness that helped hold an arrow notched during the draw.

What We Learned

The original bows gave insight into how wood reacted when under load. The looped notches on the limbs provided an anchor for the string. The shape, flat to round, provided power as the wood contorted.

The integrity of a bow had a lot to do with the quality of the wood. As a bow was made of a single stave, inspecting the material for cracks was vital. Reinforcement at the grip helped distribute the load along a larger area.

Still, pinch points existed in the grip and the string loops. These areas were the sites of catastrophic failure for bows.

Two other major issues remained in primitive bows that needed fixing. We’ll talk about those as we hit the first compound bows.

Longbows

The first improvement over the “self-bow” was to simply build longer bows. This was possible partially from the ability to cut and process trees with iron and later steel tools.

The second improvement came from fletchings and arrow regularity.

English longbows were the pinnacle of this innovation. The combination of yew staves and longer 30-36 inch arrows provided superior draw weight and distance. 

These bows boasted 90-110 pound draw weights. They fired arrows out to 240 yards.

The longbow was the weapon of prominence from 1200 to 1600. The power and ease of construction gave the weapon a lot of longevity. These bows also had superior piercing power because of the heavier arrows and broader arrowheads.

During this time, three fletched arrows became more common. Two-fletching arrows provided adequate direction for a shorter bow. Three were needed to spin the arrow in the air and not lose momentum over distance.

What We Learned

Making a bow longer than a person was tall gave more power. Japanese bows, much smaller in diameter used this same principle. To draw such a bow featured a person to angle the bow up and then bring it down to aim.

This motion provided more overall strength to the archer, as the mechanical motion of the body maximized force. 

The heavier arrows could fly further and more accurately. In part, this came from the ability of the projectile to ignore wind factors. The other part was heavier objects deliver more force.

The changes to fletching started research into how spiraling objects behave in the air. This would be a principle point in creating rifling for guns much later. For arrows, this allowed a heavier tip to be used and still reach the target before dropping. 

Recurve Bows

While the longbow dominated the battlefields of northern Europe, other developments occurred. Cultures interested in mobility were thinking along other lines. Horse riding groups such as the Mongols and Ottomans needed something shorter.

Recurve bows changed the usual D shape of a bow into more of a C shape. These were the first multi-material bows. In the Americas laminated bows were common. In Asia, these were made with glue and horn.

The process of production for recurve bows was extensive in comparison to previous bows. In part, this was a result of the multiple materials. The larger component was the effort to string such bows.

A recurve bow starts with a single material stave. To this, layers of plant fibers, sinew, or bone are attached with glue. This more rigid bow has several layers that can store force. 

Finally, craftsmen pulled the bow into a reverse of its original C shape for stringing. This provided a second dimension of power to the bow as it wanted to return to its original shape.

Recurve bows have been reported to fire arrows up to 900 yards. Their draw weight doesn’t reflect their power, much like modern compound bows. While their draw was in the 40-50 range, the resulting force was much greater.

What We Learned

Most importantly, recurve bows showed the power of combining materials. The shape of the bow also related to power. Rather than making a bow longer, so as to achieve more angle of tension, shorter with more tension worked.

These bows were easier to draw in a shallower motion, which made them perfect for horse riding.

A major drawback of the recurve was in the production. A bow made with even minor flaws would rip apart under its own power. Restringing a bow was also not a one person job. 

Compound Bows

Finally, the history of compound bows arrives at the HW Allen prototype built in 1969. 

Allen worked for years to make a mechanical bow that outperformed traditional designs. His concept was published in 1967 as “Archery Bow with Force Multiplying Attachments”.

The original design used slightly oblong pulleys and a separate grip and limb system anchored with broad screws.

The design worked but failed to gain much attention. Tom Jennings would partner with Allen in the late 1960s to bring prominence to the idea.

With Jennings’ influence, the final two issues with archery began to get lined out. The first was customization. Before the advance of compound bowhunting, a hunter needed multiple bows to remain effective across the game. Now, with tuning and hardware changes, a single bow could do all jobs.

The second issue was in how an arrow flew from a bow. Previous bows had to fire around the grip. The string was in line with the grip but the arrow was forced around it.

This created a wobble as the arrow fought to regain shape from the launch force. This required a higher degree of skill to aim and still hit a target or to compensate for wind forces.

What We Learned

The magnification of force was adequate but relied on the shape and position of the pulleys. Better positioning would mean a smoother release. Also, the riser shape and position could now change to affect aim.

The Cam vs Pulley

We mentioned mechanical engineers earlier, they have a few thoughts on pulleys and cams. 

Essentially, the shape of your cam dictates a lot about the way it behaves in a fluid motion. The angular motion of the atlatl comes back into play in designing cams. They need to pull smoothly and deliver force without skipping.

Oblong cams allowed engineers to form more accurate string angles. This shortened the limb length further. These advances also allowed the bow to deliver more power at lower draw weights. 

The Riser

All previous references to ‘grip’ affect the riser. This is the middle section that limbs attach to. Previously, the grip gave a rest for the arrow and a place to center the fulcrum of a draw. 

Disconnecting these components allowed the riser design to change. Wider risers could hold more force without adding length. A person can move the grip position left or right of the center for different handed hunters.

Hunters can place a release, rangefinder, or sight and stay in-line with the string without throwing off balance.

Modern carbon fiber compound bows also use cutouts to reduce drift on the bow itself when firing in strong winds. 

Take the Shot

The technology of the compound bow crept along for thousands of years before speeding up in the past 50 years. Today’s compound bows allow hunters to customize and change the bow to their needs.

All of these options make finding the right bow for you daunting. We have a review of the best bows of the year to help out. Contact us for more information on bows and bow hunting.

Filed Under: Compound Bow Tagged With: compound bows

Helpful Shooting Positions and Proper Bow Form to Practice Now

by thehoth

proper bow formArchery has existed for thousands of years, and as any experienced archer will tell you, it’s as much an art as a sport.

So beginners, take comfort: even experienced archers make the same mistakes you do.

Here, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about proper bow form, from placing your feet to shooting position all the way through releasing an arrow.

Proper Bow Form

To the untrained eye, archery looks easy: point and shoot.

Experienced archers know that the sport is more demanding than that, requiring engagement and awareness of the entire body.

Even something as seemingly insignificant as the angle of your feet can change the trajectory of the arrow.

In order to break down proper bow form, let’s go through the entire body from the bottom up.

Your Feet

First, let’s start with your feet since everything else will be affected by the angle of your feet.

Your body has a natural centering point. If you assume the wrong stance from the moment you place your feet, you’ll be unconsciously fighting your body as it tries to center itself.

There are three basic foot positions an archer can use:

  • Squared (feet parallel to each other and perpendicular to the target)
  • Closed (archer’s hips are closed/turned from the target)
  • Open (archer’s hips are open to/facing the target)

In all of these positions, your feet will be shoulder width apart.

Not sure which is your body’s stance of choice? There are a few easy steps you can follow to figure it out. Grab a friend for this one.

  1. Find an archery range with a wide target wall
  2. Place the target in the center of the wall
  3. Assume your stance
  4. Without moving your feet, turn around and close your eyes
  5. Keeping your eyes closed, turn back towards the target and draw
  6. Have your friend make sure the arrow will hit the target wall
  7. Release the arrow
  8. Open your eyes and assess where the arrow landed

Usually, if you’re right-handed, the arrow will be to the right of the target. If you’re left-handed, it will be to the left. This means you weren’t positioned at your natural centering point and your dominant hand took over.

Adjust your feet and keep repeating these steps until you’re consistently hitting near the target.

Torso Alignment

Once you have the correct foot stance, you can move on to torso alignment.

One of the best things you can do for your shot is to stand up straight. No slouching, no hunched shoulders. Instead, draw your shoulders down your back and engage your core to help your spine stay upright.

Looks like all those core moves are actually helpful for archery after all!

If you have a strong stance, your back won’t be arching or leaning. A strong, active core is helpful for this because it helps you balance.

Head and Shoulders

Finally, if your feet are positioned properly and your torso is solidly upright, the last piece of your stance is your head and shoulders.

While your hips may be in various positions relative to the target, your shoulders are usually perpendicular, about 75% in line with the target (which makes sense–if they weren’t, you couldn’t shoot straight!) This also helps encourage core activation to stabilize the slight twist from torso to shoulders.

Your head should be looking directly at the target so that you can see the target with both eyes.

Positions to Practice

Great, so you’re ready to shoot, right?

No so fast.

Once you understand the basics of body alignment and you’re comfortable with how to orient yourself, it’s time to practice the various archery positions.

There are four different positions:

  1. Standing
  2. Sitting
  3. Kneeling
  4. Crouching

If you’re wondering why on earth you need to practice shooting from four different stances, keep in mind that if you’re using a bow and arrows to hunt, you’re likely going to go through many different positions out of necessity.

Standing

Standing is a no-brainer and the best place for beginners to start since this is the easiest position to figure out your stance.

If you’re new to archery, break out your beginner’s bow and start with the basic steps outlined above.

If you’re already comfortable shooting and standing all day, though, it’s time to challenge yourself.

Practice with your feet together, spread apart, or on uneven ground. Practice at varying distances from your platform and consider how much space you have to work with as you prepare your shot.

Keep in mind that things rarely go perfectly in the heat of the moment. When push comes to shove, you should be comfortable in any shooting situation.

Sitting

Got standing down to a science? Time to practice your seated shot.

This is a shot that many treestand and ground blind hunters neglect every single year, figuring that it’s easier than the other positions.

But that will come back to bite you. In the other three positions, the engagement of your legs is vital to a successful shot. When you’re seated, the back muscles are what make the shot happen.

And as any hunter will tell you, springing up to stand is a guaranteed way to spook a deer.

Ideally, you should practice on the stool or chair you’ll use while hunting.

Kneeling

Kneeling is a popular position, as it offers you a ton of flexibility when hunting from a ground blind. If anything, it’s more mobile than shooting from a seated position.

That said, it’s also an extremely awkward shooting position if you’re not used to it. It’s basically the halfway point between a standing shot and a seated shot–your back does a lot of work, but your legs are more active than they would be sitting down.

Crouching

Be prepared for the family, neighbors, and even your hunting buddy to burst out laughing when they see you practicing this one. If they make jokes about shooting from the toilet, give them kudos for inventiveness.

But make no mistake: this is one of the hardest positions to shoot from.

Think about it. You spend most of the day standing and walking. Crouching is another story entirely. Your legs are working to hold you up from a halfway position, which means (if you’re doing it right) your core is also engaged to protect your spine.

Oh, and you have to focus on shooting an arrow. Preferably with accuracy.

This position is a lot harder than you think. Even if you have the leg strength to spend five minutes hanging out as if you’re about to sit in a chair, you may not have the balance. And your stumbling for balance could spook your target.

So, before you embarrass yourself on a real hunt, practice this position on your own time, and practice it often. The leg and core strength required will serve you well in other positions.

If you want to make this position feel cool, think of it as “crouching tiger”. Because channeling a classic martial arts movie is the best way to feel like a boss on the archery range or out in the woods.

Practice Makes Perfect: Break It Down

So, you know about shooting stances and you know about various positions. Time to add in the most important part: the bow and arrow.

If you practice with different bows, it’s a good idea to practice with all of them. Most of our advice regarding the arrow is focused on compound bows here since they’re the first choice for many hunters.

Posture

Sorry, but there’s no getting away from this: you have to have good posture if you want to shoot straight.

Regardless of whether you’re sitting down, crouching, or standing proud, your back should always be tall and flat with your core gently engaged. This will help keep you stable, especially if you need to hold your balance.

Keeping your back flat will also force you to use the bigger, stronger muscles in your back.

That said, resist the urge to carry this tension into your shoulders. You need your shoulders loose enough to comfortably shoot.

If your shoulders are tight, take a long breath in and exhale. Feel your shoulders drop on the exhale. Then, without creating too much tension, roll your shoulders back and away from your ears.

Nocking an Arrow

Once you’ve got your posture, it’s time to nock your arrow.

For the newbies out there, nocking is the process of connecting an arrow to a bowstring. It’s called nocking because the nock is the part of the arrow that snaps onto the bowstring.

Thankfully, this process is super simple:

  • Take your arrow from your quiver
  • Line up the arrow so the vane (the odd-colored feather) points up
  • Push the nock onto the bowstring

The nock will snap onto the D-loop, which is the loop in the center of the bowstring that looks like the letter D. You’ll need the loop later when you attach the release aid to the bowstring.

Hint: you know the nock is in place when you feel/hear it click into the D-loop.

From there, you’ll set the arrow on top of the arrow rest (unless you’re using a full containment rest).

Hooking

When you use a compound bow, hooking is the process of attaching your release aid to the D-loop and positioning your hand on the release.

There are tons of release aid options depending on the hunter, what level you are, and what you like. Most beginners use a wrist strap release aid. This type of aid buckles or velcroes onto the releasing hand and is activated by gently squeezing the trigger with the index finger.

Regardless of the type of aid you go for, don’t form a fist around the release. Instead, keep the back of your hand relaxed. There should be just enough tension to keep the release from falling out of your fingers.

Gripping

In case you haven’t noticed yet, the little details are a big deal in bow hunting. The same can be said for gripping the bow.

We just talked about the hand that releases the bowstring. When we talk about grip, we’re talking about the hand that grips the bow to hold it steady. Much like the seated shooting position, this element is often underestimated.

Begin by placing the meaty part of your thumb/palm on the middle of the bow grip. The key here is to maintain just enough tension to keep the bow from sliding out of your hands (i.e. no clenched fists in sight).

Once you’ve placed your thumb, the rest of your fingers should be at a 45-degree angle to the bow.

Clear Your Mind

Next is the part many hunters neglect: clear your mind.

Even if you struggled up to this point, you have to let it go and clear your head. If you want to hit your target, you have to focus on the task at hand.

Draw and Anchor

From here, extend your bow arm towards the target with the bowstring either in your fingers or the release aid.

Point the arrow at the target, check your grip, and draw the string back towards your face. Keep the bow and arrow steady as you draw.

If your bow has too much poundage to draw back smoothly, rewind and reduce the bow weight until your shooting muscles are stronger.

Once the bowstring is drawn, lock your string hand against the side of your face (anchoring). You should have a comfortable anchor that more or less aligns your aiming eye with the string. Release aid shooters usually press their release alongside or under the chin.

Aim and Release

Once anchored, take aim. Most bowhunters use bowsights to aim, though some don’t. If you’re a new or inexperienced bowhunter, it’s a good idea to use a bowsight to get started.

Bring your aiming sight pin on target. Most archers raise their bow towards the target, which makes it easier to see the bull’s-eye above your sights.

The key is consistency. You should train your muscles to swing on a target the exact same way every time so you can do it without thinking. Move the bow smoothly, hold steady for a second or two, and release the arrow.

If you use a release aid, you’ll have an easier time avoiding jerking and flinching than finger shooters, since you just need to squeeze the release. The key is to squeeze, not punch.

Looking for a Compound Bow?

Once you know proper bow form, it’s hard to resist practicing every single day.

Of course, your practice is helped by the right tools. A great compound bow can make all the difference in your shot.

If you’re looking for a compound bow or reviews of the best options on the market, we’ve got your back. Check out our review of the best compound bows of 2017.

Filed Under: Compound Bow

How to Choose the Perfect Compound Bow

by thehoth

compound bow

Over 13 million Americans hunt annually. Of those, a third use or have used a bow.

Whether you plan to track and slay a buck or even if you just want to get your Legolas on, purchasing a compound bow is a complicated process if you desire the perfect one. It requires foresight, planning and an understanding of everything a compound bow offers.

For beginners, the process is intimidating. Where do you start and what do all those funny terms mean? Here, we’ll take you through each step in purchasing a bow so you can let those arrows fly from your perfect match.

History

The bow and arrow was one of man’s most useful hunting weapons for thousands of years. In fact, artifacts place the first use of bone arrows to 61,000 years ago in South Africa.

In battle, the development of the crossbow and the English longbow made bow and arrows formidable weapons. The fact that this weapon of choice has been utilized by so many cultures is a testament to its usefulness in war, defense and necessary hunting for food. From the Eskimo people to the Africans and Japanese, it appears in varying forms throughout history.

It wasn’t until 1966 when the compound bow entered the picture. That year, hunter Holless Wilbur Allen decided to modify a recurve bow so deer couldn’t dodge the slow-moving arrows of past bows. His crude, wooden model was the prototype from which compound bows were created.

What Is a Compound Bow?

Compound bows contain stiffer limbs that the recurve or longbow, which is why its system of pulleys and levers are so useful. This system makes arrows shoot faster and with greater force. It is considered the most recent advancement in archery.

The compound bow is made up of several parts you’ll be sure to hear about when shopping for your first one:

  • Riser – the center of the bow to which the limbs are attached
  • Grip – the area where the bowman holds the bow
  • Cables – the strings attached to the pulleys
  • String – the string you pull back to shoot
  • Cams – the pulleys
  • Axle – the part that attaches the cam to the bow
  • Limbs – the near-horizontal pieces at each end of the riser

Unlike recurve or longbows, a compound bow remains strung when not in use.

Why Purchase One?

Many hunters or shooters wonder why someone would prefer a bow over a gun. According to a study by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, there are a variety of reasons.

The most commonly cited reason is the challenge a bow offers. Learning to use a compound bow requires patience, strength and practice. Additionally, it requires a skill set that emphasizes composure at a close range.

The hunting season is also longer for those who hunt with a bow. Most seasons begin earlier and the times usually coincide with plentiful game.

Other reasons to use a compound bow include the peace and quiet it offers, the exercise and the ability to give prey a fighting chance.

What to Consider Before Buying

There are a number of factors to consider before purchasing a compound bow. We’ll walk you through each of them here.

Ocular Dominance

The very first thing a potential consumer should think about is ocular dominance. Which is your shooting eye?

Knowing this will determine if you need a right-handed or left-handed bow. Typically, the dominant eye parallels the dominant hand, but cross-dominance (in which the dominant eye and hand do not match) is not uncommon.

To discover which eye is dominant, extend your arms in front of you. Using your thumbs and forefingers, create a triangle.

Next, point the triangle at a specific object in the room. Pick something relatively small, about the size of your first or slightly larger.

Once the object is in the center of the triangle, close one eye. You’ll notice the object “shifts” to the left or right. Your dominant eye is whichever one keeps the object in the triangle.

Unfortunately, if you are cross-dominant, this means you may have to fine-tune either your non-dominant eye or motor skills. A left ocular dominant person who is right-handed, for instance, should shoot left-handed. Consequently, it may take extra practice to strengthen the motor skills in that hand.

Keep in mind in archery, right-handed means the bow is held in the left hand. The bowstring is pulled back with the right hand.

A left-handed bow requires the archer to hold the weapon in his or her right hand. The string is pulled back with the left hand.

Think of your hands as triggers and it’s easy to remember.

Bare or Ready-to-Shoot

In your search for a bow, you will find some are “bare” and others are “ready-to-shoot.”

To shoot a compound bow, several accessories are required, including an arrow rest, sight and quiver. Bare bows allow individuals to choose their own accessories to build their bow to their specifications. While this allows an archer to create their perfect weapon, it requires knowledge of the different accessories and what’s right for you.

Consequently, we recommend ready-to-shoot bows for beginners. These come equipped with all the necessary components to start shooting as soon as the compound is out of the box.

For a beginner, ready-to-shoot is an excellent introduction to the basic types of accessories one could have.

Draw Length

The draw length is one of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a bow. Your arm’s draw length and the bow’s should match up, otherwise, you’ll never be able to shoot like Katniss Everdeen.

The draw length is the length you are able to pull back on the bowstring before firing. Most bows have adjustments of only a few inches, so it’s integral you measure your draw length before purchasing.

To find your draw length, stand comfortably with your arms outstretched. Have someone measure the distance from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Don’t stretch during this process.

Divide that number by 2.5 and you’ll have an approximate draw length.

Although this is a useful trick, you may find you shoot better at a slightly shorter or longer draw length. If possible, test different lengths to find your preference before buying.

When purchasing, also consider the draw length as an indicator of speed. The longer the draw length, the greater force behind the arrow.

Draw Weight

The draw weight is just as important. This is the amount of force required to pull the string back. Generally, adult males stick around the 60-pound range and adult females stay around the 40-pound range, but it’s vital you find where you’re comfortable.

When drawing a compound bow, you’ll notice the most “pull” about three-quarters through rather than at the end. This is the draw cycle, which is comprised of three shifts in weight. To shoot accurately, an individual must be comfortable managing and holding this weight until it is time to release.

The draw rate is determined from several factors, including the bow length, material, cams and shape. Generally, manufacturers include draw weights in 10-pound increments. For instance, a weight of #60 usually indicates the bow has a draw rate of 50 to 60 pounds.

Always double check the draw rate. Companies may include only one number when the bow has several adjustable weights.

For beginners, a bow with adjustable weights is ideal. It allows them to begin at a comfortable level and work their way up.

Keep in mind when testing a product that you should be able to hold the string somewhat taught for an extended period of time. Additionally, a “heavier” weight increases the arrow’s speed.

Axle-to-Axle Length

Next comes investigating the axle-to-axle length. This is the length from the center of one cam (where the axle attaches the cam to the bow) to the other.

There is no agreed-upon definition of what constitutes a short-axle or long-axle, but you will notice most bows come with about 30 to 33 inches of axle length.

As with the other characteristics, it’s best to try the lengths out before purchasing. Further, hunters should always consider their personal height, too. What’s comfortable and what you shoot best with is what’s right.

When browsing products, keep in mind a shorter bow is harder to aim and control, making accuracy difficult for beginners. Because of this, a long-axle is advised for beginners. It provides a stable base that helps accuracy.

For starters, longer and heavier is optimal.

Cams

There really isn’t much to consider with the varying cam types, as advancements have made them all very similar. However, hunters and archers should contemplate upkeep.

A single cam bow comes with a long string that is expensive to replace. However, they are easy to tune.

A twin cams bow is difficult to tune, making it ideal for professionals but no so much for beginners. A cam-and-a-half takes the best of both worlds. Although it requires tuning, if the string is out of sync it won’t affect performance as much as a twin cams.

Binary cams are excellent for beginners, as all the cams work together so that, even if something is out of tune, it doesn’t affect shooting.

Brace Height

The brace height is the distance between the string and the grip. This height impacts the draw stroke, which affects speed and power.

A shorter height means you must pull the bowstring back further, boosting the speed and power. A taller height means there is less length to pull the string back.

Consider, too, the effect on accuracy. A short height is harder to control while a tall height is more stable.

Most bows offer a height between six and seven inches. It’s a good spot for beginners.

Speed

We all want warp-speed arrows slinging out of our compound, but we have to take into consideration the factors that influence speed: draw length, draw weight and arrow density.

“Fast” is considered over 320 feet per second (fps). Do yourself a favor and worry less about speed and more about the other characteristics.

Speed is important, but you’ll find as you grow as a bowman, you’ll be able to use bows with greater draw lengths and weights, which equates to better speed. You don’t need an arrow to shoot at 218 miles per hour (the equivalent of 320 feet per second) to strike your prey.

With that being said, it’s also significant to note manufacturers advertise speed based on a 70-pound draw weight and 30-inch draw length. So unless you shoot with these same characteristics and a super lightweight arrow, you might never reach the speed advertised.

Bow Weight

Next, consider the bow weight, which is usually referred to as “bow mass” or “mass weight.” Heavier bows are easier to handle while lighter ones are ideal for professionals or those with prior archery.

But honestly? You may not even notice the difference. Hold a few differently weighted bows out at arm’s length to see how you feel. If you think your arms will get tired, consider a lighter compound bow.

Most on the market are about four pounds.

Material

Your bow is only as good as the material it’s made from. Because of the draw weight put upon it, the riser in a compound bow must be strong. For this reason, many companies today make bows with machined aluminum, carbon-fiber or carbon-composites.

If you purchase a bow, check the riser for sturdiness and always take the time to look at customer reviews.

Hunting Style

Match the bow with your hunting style. Long-distance hunters, for example, may prefer something lightweight. If you’re hunting a specific game, there is usually an optimal draw weight. Still other hunters are specific about release noise.

Assess your uses and match them up to the appropriate dimensions.

Accessories

Finally, research to see if you would like additional accessories. Some are very useful in hunting or in archery as a sport.

A release aid, for instance, allows for a smooth release with high accuracy every time. Other accessories include:

  • A clicker
  • A sight
  • A quiver
  • An arrow rest
  • A case

Choose Your Weapon

Finding the perfect compound bow requires understanding the elements each bow contains and each part’s importance. By assessing your needs and comforts, you’ll be able to find your perfect match in no time.

But if you do need a little help, we’re here. We’ve compiled a list of the three best compound bows. Take a look and see if your next bow makes our list.

Filed Under: Compound Bow

A Comprehensive Guide to Compound Bow Maintenance

by thehoth

compound bow maintenanceYou should be treating your compound bow just like you would treat your car. In order to keep it in good shape and running smoothly, you have to do regular upkeep.

Whether you’re a hunter or a hobbyist, a compound bow is a big investment. To stay at the top of your game, you have to keep your compound bow well maintained.

Proper compound bow maintenance will keep things running smoothly and extend its longevity–in both appearance and performance.

But where do you start? With all the different parts of the compound bow, it can be challenging to put together the right maintenance checklist–and be sure that you’re handling every aspect of bow maintenance.

It doesn’t matter if you’re a beginner, an expert, or somewhere in between–bow maintenance is crucial for archery. Here’s a guide on how you can get started.

What Are Compound Bows?

You can tell right away whether a bow is a compound bow or not–just by looking at it. Compound bows can be identified by the pulleys at either end of the bow. The system of pulleys and cables give it what’s known as the “let-off” capability.

As the archer draws back the bow, they’ll reach the “let-off” point. Even if they start pulling at the full weight of the bow, when they reach that point, the draw will be reduced to a lesser weight. Then they’ll stay at this weight until they release the arrow.

This means that with a compound bow, you can fire a more powerful shot with less effort.

The wheels at either end of the drawstring help reduce the full weight of the bow, so you won’t have to struggle to keep the bow straight. You’ll have a stronger shot as well as a more accurate one. A compound bow can reduce the draw weight by 50% or more.

Compound bows are used in field archery, target archery, and hunting. There’s a wide range of styles, weights, and sizes, but they all have the same fundamental design.

What Makes It Different from a Traditional Bow?

All bows rely on stored energy. When you pull back the string, the bow is storing energy to shoot the arrow more quickly than if you just threw it with your hand. But compound bows and traditional bows are different in the way that they store that energy.

A traditional recurve bow is pretty simple. The further you draw back the bow, the more powerful the shot. The harder it is to pull back the string, the faster it will shoot the arrow. This is a direct transfer of energy from the string to the arrow.

With a compound bow, the wheels at either end of the bow are designed to reduce that weight. The energy transfer is a little more complicated. If the bow has a 50-pound draw weight, you’re not holding the full 50 pounds with a compound bow.

Because of this unique energy storage ability, compound bows let you take more careful aim. Another plus, you don’t have to be physically strong to pull back a strong bow–even children can shoot a compound bow.

Compound Bow Parts

Unlike a traditional recurve bow, a compound bow can be strung all the time, even when not in use. While this might mean less day-to-day maintenance, there are a lot more moving parts in the compound bow.

Here are some of the different parts that make up a compound bow.

Limbs

The part of the bow that flexes when the string is pulled, storing and releasing energy

Cams

The wheels on either end of the limbs which help to create the let-off point and reduce the draw weight. Compound bows can come with one cam, two cams, or hybrid cams. More cams usually mean greater speed.

Bowstring

The string which is pulled to rotate the cams and flex the limbs. When you release the string, it launches the arrow.

Cables

The cables keep the limbs tied to the cams, allowing them to pull on each other.

Cable Slide

This holds the cables off to one side so that they don’t get in the way of the arrow.

Riser

The riser holds the limbs and gives a space to mount items like the rest, stabilizer, and the sight. It also functions as a handle for the archer.

Brace Height

This is the distance between the grip and the string when the bow is at rest. A shorter brace height means the string transfers more power to the arrow, which allows for the arrow to fire at faster speeds. However, the longer the brace height, the more challenging accuracy becomes.

A Comprehensive Guide to Compound Bow Maintenance

The following guide can give you a good place to start your compound bow maintenance. Once you know what to do and how to do it, you can start putting together a schedule for cleaning, fixing, and maintaining your compound bow.

With these essential tips, you’ll be off shooting your bow in no time.

1. Listen to Your Bow

Every week, take the time to inspect your compound bow for any damage or regular wear. If at any time during your inspection–or while you’re shooting–you hear a strange sound or feel vibrations that shouldn’t be there, stop shooting.

Examine the bow for damage. If you can’t find the problem, take it to a shop to have it checked out.

Damage may start as a small irregularity, but it can quickly turn into a serious issue. What feels like just an odd noise could end up becoming a cracked limb. The sooner you can fix the little problems, the less likely it is that you’ll have to pay for a big repair later down the line.

2. Watch Your Strings

Check your bowstring and cables regularly. If you notice any damage or wear, replace them as soon as you can.

It’s generally recommended that you replace strings and cables every 12 to 18 months or every 2,500 shots. This will help you maintain optimum performance.

Apply bowstring wax to the string and cables. If you’re using the bow regularly, apply once a week. A few times a month or once a month will be fine if you use the bow on a less frequent basis.

Only use soft wax on your string, and don’t rub it in too hard. If you cause too much friction, you could create heat which could damage the cable.

3. Don’t “Dry Fire”

Don’t ever “dry fire” your bow, or shoot the compound bow without an arrow in it. If you ever do accidentally dry fire or misfire without an arrow, check the bow for any damage. Inspect the limbs for any cracks or signs of wear.

Also, take a look at your arrows to make sure none of them are bent.

4. Keep It Synchronized

Your compound bow’s cams need to be synchronized in order for it to fire.

The position of the cams can affect the timing, draw length, and ability to store energy. If your cams aren’t in sync, you might find that you’re struggling with aim or the arrow falls short. It can also lead to premature bowstring failure.

At full draw, the cams should rotate and reach the let-off point at the same time. If one cam isn’t in the same position as the other, one of the buss cables needs to be adjusted.

If you don’t know how to adjust a cable, it might be best to leave this one to the professionals. Just keep an eye on your cams to make sure they’re functioning in perfect sync, and take it to the shop if you think there might be an issue.

5. Never Draw Too Far

Don’t draw the string past its designated draw length. If you consistently draw too far, you’ll put stress on the cables and cause them to break over time.

Take a close look at your cable and see if you have any dents or cracks. Some smaller dents are normal, but if there are too many or they seem deep, your cable may end up snapping over the course of a few weeks or months.

6. Avoid Excessive Heat

Keep your compound bow away from any heat source. Excessive heat can cause limb failure or break down the materials of your string and cable. This can stretch your cables out and weaken them.

Even just the heat of a sunny day inside a closed car can damage your compound bow. Anything over 100 degrees Fahrenheit could lead to severe damage to all parts of your bow.

7. Always Lubricate

Help things run more smoothly by keeping your axles well lubricated.

Use high-quality oil without any cleaning agents. The oil will help keep the cams and cables moving smoothly, so you can draw back without too much friction.

If your compound bow has cams with needle bearings, don’t use oil. The oil could break down the grease that they’re packed with and cause damage to the bow.

8. Tuning Your Bow

Paper tuning your bow is one of the best ways to check if your bow is functioning well and your arrows are flying true. Here’s how you do it.

  1. Fix a piece of paper to a frame so that you can shoot through it
  2. Stand about 8 feet away from the paper
  3. Using good form, shoot an arrow through the paper
  4. Study the results
  5. Adjust bow if necessary and repeat the process

This process allows you to study the shape of the hole or tear that your arrow made in the paper. The specifics of this tear will tell you a lot about what adjustments you need to make to your bow.

For example, if the tear is too long up or down, you might need to adjust the nocking point. If it’s too long left to right, you might have a timing problem or your spine is too stiff.

At the end of the tuning process, you should have a clean, straight hole in the sheet of paper–and a well-tuned bow.

9. Proper Storage

You won’t be shooting your bow all the time, so it’s important that you give your compound bow a good place to rest.

Store it in a dry place, preferably locked in its designated bag or container. Don’t expose your bow to the elements, and be sure to dry the surface of your bow before storing it. Moisture can cause the bow’s material to bend and it can warp the surface.

To protect from moisture, store a bow along with a pack of silica gel. The gel will absorb any excess moisture that may have remained on the bow.

10. Go to a Professional

Just remember, your compound bow is a mechanical device. There are a lot of parts and maintenance can get complicated.

While day to day bow maintenance can help keep your compound bow in top shape, it still requires periodic inspection and service by a professional. It’s recommended that you bring your bow in at least once a year for professional inspection.

They can best identify any serious problems and fix them–not to mention touch up on some of the maintenance that you might not have known about.

The Bottom Line

All it takes is just a few minutes each day to take care of your bow–and keep it in peak condition for when you need it the most.

With compound bow maintenance, a little extra care can go a long way. From inspecting your bow to adjusting and waxing the cables, it might take some time for you to set up a maintenance schedule.

Depending on how much you use your bow, aim for a bow maintenance routine that works well for you. And remember, if you take good care of your bow, it will take good care of you in return.

Ready to get started with a compound bow of your own? Check out our article on buying the best compound bow for you.

Filed Under: Compound Bow

10 Best Compound Bows for Beginners

by thehoth

compound bowsWith archery becoming more prominent in popular culture, more people are trying it for themselves each year. With the right equipment and practice, you too can aspire to be like Katniss or Hawkeye.

Buying your first compound bow may sound overwhelming or intimidating. We’ll show you it doesn’t have to be with these buying tips and list of the best compound bows for beginners.

Good news for women, it isn’t just a men’s sport anymore. More manufacturers are building compound bows designed specifically for youths and women.

Four Types of Bows

There are four types of bows in the world of archery. Some are better suited for beginners like recurve bows. While others are best left to the experienced such as longbows.

Recurve Bows

Historically a recurve bow was used by those on horses. It’s also the bow that is used in Olympic events.

They have an instantly recognizable shape with a large curve in the center and the smaller curves at the ends. The shape is what gives the bow more power.

This is the most basic type of bow and what most beginners learn the basics on. Once you have mastered the basics accessories will be added.

Compound Bows

A compound bow is going to utilize a system of pulleys and eccentric cams to give the archer more aim time. Your arm will fatigue slower over the long term, but they do require a good amount of force to pull the first draw.

Outside influencers like weather and changes in temperature and humidity are less impactful on compound bows. Typically you will have already learned the basics of archery before you tackle a compound bow.

Longbows

The longbow was the weapon of choice in the mid 16th century. They are simplistic in design with a long piece of curved wood the same height as the archer.

These bows are best left to the experienced as they are harder to aim. They also do not have the same level of velocity and power as the compound and recurve.

Crossbows

Crossbows are different from the other types in the method for firing them. The bow is drawn back by a crank.

You would hold the bow up horizontal instead of vertical like the other bows. There are strict regulations for crossbows and they can vary greatly from state to state.

Tips For Considering Compound Bows

Don’t get hung up on the brand names, they are not nearly as important as a personal preference for features and use. Keep these tips in mind while looking through the best compound bows for beginners.

Dominant Eye Must be Known

There are different bows for left and right-handed people. For right-handed people, the right eye will be dominant while for left-handed people it is the left eye.

Sometimes this isn’t always the case and you will be left handed and right eye dominant. You’ll need to check which one is your dominant eye.

Put your index and thumbs in a triangle and center it over a distant object. Then close each eye one at a time.

Let say you close your left eye and the triangle stayed centered. This means you are right eye dominant.

Technical Specifications Must be Considered

Look at the technical specs of the axle, axle length, draw weight, draw length, and brace height. Make sure the specs meet your particular needs.

Identify Your Strengths

Get some help identifying your strengths and weaknesses. You want your bow to compliment you and help you improve.

Price Must not Affect your Decision

Picking the cheapest option may be tempting when you’re just starting out. This isn’t the wisest choice, you want to invest in good quality.

Warranty Must be Considered

You are investing in equipment, so look for a company that offers a warranty. This will give you assurances that the product is quality and there is support if there is a problem.

Discuss With Other People

Getting some advice from people with more knowledge and experience can be very helpful. Read online reviews and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of compound bows.

1. Genesis Original Bow

Anyone can fire this bow as it is simple to use and reliable. Its wide appeal has made it the US National Archery Schools Program official bow.

It only has a 20 pond draw weight but still offers maximum power. The aluminum construction allows it to be lightweight and sturdy.

You also get twelve colors to choose from so customization is totally doable. Continuing the wide appeal the draw length is 15 to 30 inches.

This wide range of draw length is rare among compound bows. A wide range like this means all beginners can use this bow.

2. Genesis Mini Kit (under 20lb)

This lightweight bow is perfect for ladies and children who have smaller hands. The total weight of the bow is just two pounds.

You can practice for hours with this bow and not get fatigued. The kit is beginner friendly as it comes with a ton of items.

You’ll get the bow, five arrows, arm guard, belt tube quiver, and a user manual. Anyone just getting into archery will be able to start immediately with this kit.

This bow has a strong resale value. This will become important as you progress and decide to upgrade your bow.

3. Barnett Outdoors Lil Banshee Jr. Compound Youth Archery Set

This is the perfect bow for children who are getting into archery and have never used a bow before. It is sized for the smaller stature of youths.

This bow also comes in a variety of colors making it appeal to a wide range of beginners. It also comes in a kit so you’ll get the bow plus finger rollers, two arrows, adjustable pin sight, and a carrying case.

We mentioned earlier that it is important to look for a bow that matches your left or right hand. This bow is different in that it can be adapted to either dominant hand.

With a draw weight of just 18 pounds, draw length or 18-22 inches, and weighing under 2 pounds this bow is perfect for beginner youths.

Barnett is well known in the industry for quality bows. The price is a bargain considering everything you are getting in addition to the bow.

This makes getting started easy. You will also have the benefit of a five your manufacturer’s warranty.

4. Barnett Outdoors Team Realtree Banshee Quad Junior Compound Bow Archery Set

This bow has the best grip and softest comfort giving beginners excellent handling. This bow is best for older youths and woman with some experience.

The bow is on the lighter side but not the lightest you’ll find. It was designed to stand up to the wear and tear of serious use.

Beginners who have outgrown their first bow and looking for an upgrade should consider this bow. Even though it has a 41-inch compound frame it is one of the lightest bows in its class.

This means you will easily launch your arrows compared to your competition. Both left and right-handers have access to this competitive edge with the ambidextrous reinforced handle.

This bow will allow newer archers to progress without fear of outgrowing the bow too quickly. The bow comes as a kit so you will also get two arrows, a wrist guard, paper target, finger rollers and an adjustable pin sight.

5. Bear Archery Cruzer – Best Ready to Hunt Compound Bow Package

This bow is the one size fits all of the compound hunting bows. The draw length has a range of twelve to thirty inches that is extended in increments of a half inch.

The draw weight is seventy pounds. Making it even more unique is the grip designed for comfort and convenience.

This hunting bow can literally be used by anyone and it will give you the results you want. With it coming from a company that has a decade of experience you wouldn’t expect anything less.

Arm fatigue is minimized with a total of weight 3.6 pounds aluminum construction. The package includes everything you need like a wrist strap, stabilizer, arrow rest, fiber optic site, and quiver.

It can be a bit daunting to set up the bow, but it is usable out of the box. Once it is set up it was last for years thanks to its durable aluminum construction.

Be prepared to spend a bit more on this bow. The price is totally worth the quality, durability, and performance you will get.

Hunting Versatility

It’s worth mentioning that if you are looking for a bow to begin hunting this bow performs above and beyond other beginner bows. The noise and vibrations are minimal.

Use a 350-grain arrow at 70 pounds of draw and you’ll achieve 310 FPS. This is powerful enough to successfully hunt popular game like deer and wild boar.

The Cruzer’s stabilizer and string suppressor creates a quiet and smooth release. There is also a G2 model which creates even more velocity.

6. Diamond Archery 2013 Diamond Infinite Edge Bow Pkg Black

When a beginner has outgrown the smaller youth bows but is still relatively new to archery, the Diamond Infinite Edge is the perfect option. This bow fills in the gap for teenagers who are too big for youth and women who have a draw bigger than standard female bows.

It has a ton of adjustability to adapt to the archer’s individual needs. It is also reasonably priced making it has wide appeal.

Beginners can adjust the draw weight from five to seventy pounds. The draw length ranges from thirteen to thirty-one inches.

An extremely smooth draw makes it beginner friendly. The package also includes a rest, sight, stabilizer, and a quiver.

Left-handed women will love that this bow is much more favorably priced compared to other models in the class. This makes it a great buy for those looking to try out archery before investing in something more expensive.

7. Bear Archery Attitude Compound Bow RTH Realtree RH 70lb

Bear is known for making high-quality bows and this youth bow is no different. It only has a draw weight of sixty to seventy pounds which is perfect for beginners.

The short draw length of twenty-five to thirty-two inches is perfect for younger beginners. The riser is also composite which makes it a higher quality than other beginner bows.

8. Crosman Elkhorn Jr. Compound Bow

The Elkhorn is another bow on this list that will come with everything you need to get started in archery. It has the look and feel of a professional bow with composite riser and heavyweight limbs.

It has an easy draw weight of just seventeen pounds. A younger shooter will do better with the 33 axle.

9. Bowtech Carbon Rose

It used to be that if you were a woman and interested in archery your options were youth bows or something that was pink or purple camo. Manufacturers are now building bows that are specifically designed for women like the Carbon Rose.

The Carbon Rose includes features that have never before been offered on women exclusive bows. It is the women’s version of the Bowtech Carbon Overdrive.

The female version is sized down for the woman shooter. This bow is priced more for someone who is planning on doing archery long term and looking for an investment.

It has a draw weight of 30-60 pounds which is perfect for the women who have outgrown youth bows. The draw length is smaller at 22.5 to 27.

The grips have been slimmed down to fit women’s hands. It also comes in Mossy Oak camp or carbon. Both come with just an accent of purple.

10. SAS Rage

The SAS Rage isn’t as widely adjustable as the other bows on this list with a draw length of 25 to 31 inches. It is the most affordable though.

It’s made of ABS making it super durable and long lasting to the abuse of beginners. It also has aluminum cams so you’ll get a smooth draw.

This bow will help new shooters gain confidence. In the future, you may want to upgrade the bow sight and arrow rest.

Wrapping Up

Each of the bows we’ve listed has features that are designed to give beginners the best start possible in archery. Don’t get hung up on the price and instead focus on the features and adjustability.

Make sure that the bow you like is designed for your dominant eye. Confirm that the bow is set up for your skill and strength level.

Compound bows are used by more than 62% of archers. They are a great choice for beginners looking to get into the sport.

We’d love to hear about your experiences buying your perfect beginner compound bow.

Filed Under: Compound Bow

Your Ultimate Guide to Choosing Compound Bow Arrows

by thehoth

compound bow arrowsYour bow is useless without the perfect arrow.

A lot of beginners make the same mistake–buying a high-quality, expensive bow but skimping on the arrows. Once you start shooting, you’ll notice that the arrow makes a big difference in terms of accuracy.

Without good arrows, it doesn’t matter how good your bow is. Arrows are a necessity for archery–not an accessory.

But picking arrows for your compound bow isn’t an easy task. There’s a wide range of options out there, and all the details are enough to make any archer’s head spin.

Whether you’re a beginner, a professional, or somewhere in between, choosing the perfect compound bow arrows can improve your archery experience.

The following guide isn’t all-inclusive, but it will give you a good place to start the search for the right arrows for you. These tips and selections will help you start shooting your compound bow and arrow as quickly as possible.

What Are Compound Bows?

The compound bow is best identified by the system of pulleys at either end of the bow, as well as the multiple strings. It’s used in field archery, target archery, and bowhunting.

There are many styles available, but they all have the same fundamental design.

Each bow has wheels attached to the limbs and bowstring. These store energy as the bow is drawn to reduce the holding weight and make it easier to hold. This means that a compound bow reduces the draw weight by 50 percent or more.

What’s special about a compound bow?

Compound bows are seen as the most recent evolution of archery. The pulley system on either end of the bow is what gives it a unique “let-off” capability.

The let-off is the point during the draw of a bow when the archer can hold less weight. This means that the archer will begin drawing back the spring at the full weight of the compound bow.

Partly through the draw, the archer will reach the let-off point and the draw will be reduced to less than the original weight. The archer stays at this weight until they release the arrow.

This allows the archer to take more time while aiming for greater accuracy.

Compound Bows vs Traditional Bows

While all bows use the stored energy of the flexed limbs to shoot the arrow quickly, compound bows and traditional recurve bows store energy differently.

Recurve bows store that energy directly. When you draw back the string, the further you draw, the more energy transfers to the arrow when you release. The harder it is to pull back a traditional recurve bow, the faster it will shoot the arrow.

The key point of the traditional recurve bow is that when you’ve pulled the string all the way back, you’re holding the full weight of the bow. If the bow has a 60-pound draw weight, for example, you’re holding 60 pounds when you pull back the string.

The wheels on the end of a compound bow are called the cams. They’re designed to create the let-off point, which reduces the total draw weight.

Through these cams, the archer can hold the bow at full draw for longer in order to take more careful aim. They can also hold the bow steadier, which further improves their accuracy.

What to Look For in an Arrow

Before we get into the specific arrows to consider for a compound bow, let’s get into the types of arrows that are available on the market today.

It’s crucial that you can identify which styles and designs will work best for your bow and your preferences.

Wooden arrows

If you prefer to shoot old school, wooden arrows are the way to go. These give the authentic experience of traditional archery and they’re very inexpensive.

They do tend to break easily and not every arrow is the same. They’re also recommended for recurve or longbows, so it might be best to steer clear of these if you’re shooting a compound.

Fiberglass arrows

These are a typical choice of arrows for group archery programs, because they’re inexpensive and good beginner arrows. However, they do have a tendency to splinter, and some shooting ranges may outlaw them entirely.

Another downside is that they tend to be heavier than other arrows. This makes them poor at long distance accuracy and probably best for a recurve bow.

Carbon arrows

These arrows are the best for speed. They’re light, fast, and don’t bend under pressure. Another advantage is that they have less wind drift when they’re shot–which is great for both consistency and accuracy.

They do tend to be more expensive than other options, especially aluminum.

Aluminum arrows

If you’re looking for the best precision to price ratio, aluminum arrows are the perfect choice. They’re cheaper than carbon arrows and they’re very quiet when shot by a bow. There’s also a wide range of spine choices available.

They’re typically heavier than carbon models, so you’ll need to use thinner arrows to get the same level of speed. This means less penetration–which isn’t great for hunters.

One downside is that aluminum arrows often bend. While some can be fixed, others can’t be recovered.

Composite arrows

These arrows are the best of both worlds. They’re typically straight and uniformly spined, which is great for accurate shooting long distance. They’re also incredibly durable and they rarely splinter.

They’re often used by high-ranked competitive shooters, so the cost is pretty high. These are great for compound bows but not recommended for beginners.

Vanes or Feathers

The fletchings are the fins found at the end of the arrow. They help the arrow spin and stabilize the flight of the arrow for better accuracy.

Most arrows are fletched with three vanes or feathers. While vanes are made of plastic, other arrows have fletchings made of feathers.

Which type should you pick? Let’s break it down.

Vanes

Vanes are fletchings made of plastic. They’re more durable and capable of withstanding the effect of weather.

They’re often used by outdoor compound archers or hunters because of their ability to handle tough weather without breaking. They also have less wind drift, which makes them great for any outdoor shooting.

Feathers

Feathers on the end of an arrow are often made from primary flight feathers of turkey wings. They’re lighter and more flexible than vanes, but they can hit the bow’s riser, which might disrupt accuracy.

Feathers are often preferred by archers because of their versatility and accuracy for indoor shooting. They’re also used by hunters who are looking for pinpoint accuracy.

One downside is that they can get waterlogged from the rain. This makes them hard to shoot during outdoor weather.

How to Choose Arrow Points

When you’re choosing the type of arrow and deciding between vanes and feathers, ultimately the best choice comes down to your personal archery preferences.

What kind of bow are you using and what will you be using it for?

When it comes to picking out the arrow points, there are a few options to choose from. They can be narrowed down to two categories: Target practice and bowhunting.

Target practice

For target practice, it’s important that you find tips that are designed to be shot into foam or bag targets. Some points can be screwed in, while others are glued over the tip of the arrow.

For greater accuracy, look for arrow points that are narrow around the tip. For greater durability, try the broader, bullet-shaped points.

Hunting

For bowhunting, you’ll want to get broadheads. There’s a wide variety of heads out there, each for different types of bows and game.

If you’re hunting small game, a flat head is great for blunt force. For larger game, pointed heads are more common. Some broadheads have multiple blades and they come in a range of designs.

All of these heads are designed to penetrate skin and muscle–so don’t try using them on any kind of target.

Choosing Compound Bow Arrows

Now that we’ve discussed all of the options, it’s time to get down to the real question: how do you decide on an arrow?

With all of the different options out there, even if you know your preferences it can be hard to choose. Here are some steps you can take.

1. Draw Length

For the first step, you need to find out your draw length. Try going to an archery store or a sports goods store that sells archery items and ask about a draw length measurement.

They’ll give you a special arrow for measurement. All you’ll have to do is draw it back with your bow. Someone will check the scale and note how far the arrow goes back.

Going to a professional will help you get an accurate draw length–plus they can recommend some arrows to try.

If you aren’t able to go to an archery store, instead just measure your arm span from the tip of your left middle finger to the one on your right. Then divide that number by 2.5.

In terms of draw length and arrow length, a good rule of thumb is to take the number of your draw length and add one inch. It’s important that the arrow is just a little bit longer than your draw length so that it doesn’t hit your hand while shooting.

2. Weight

Next, you need to pick the perfect arrow weight.

Remember that the weight includes all the components of the arrows–shaft, point, fletchings, etc. You can determine the weight by:

  • Find the weight of the shaft (you can look for a chart based on size/length)
  • Find the weight of the arrow point or broadhead
  • Add approximately 35 grains to compensate for the other parts of the arrow

For target practice, your arrow should weigh between 5 and 6 grains per pound of draw weight. For hunting, it should be between 6 and 8 grains per pound of draw weight.

This rule isn’t necessarily set in stone. Any arrow between 5 and 8 grains per pound of draw weight will work for a compound bow. Just keep in mind–you should never pick an arrow below 5 grains. This could result in serious damage to your bow.

3. Spine

The spine of your arrow is one of the most important things to consider–but also one of the most complicated. Arrow spine comes down to the stiffness of your shaft. The lower the number, the stiffer the spine.

This is important because shooting with the wrong arrow spine for your bow can make it hard to shoot accurately, or even shoot at all.

Picking the right arrow spine can take a lot of trial and error. Especially if you’re ordering online, don’t worry about the spine right away. You’ll need some practice before you can determine the right spine for your bow, style, and technique.

Once you’ve become better acquainted with your bow, then go ahead and get a little deeper into the world of arrow spine. Here’s a chart that can help you crunch the numbers.

The Bottom Line

Selecting the right compound bow arrows is no easy feat. From the different styles of arrows and tips, as well as the measurement of arrow length and weight, it might take some time for you to narrow down the right choice for you.

With this guide, it’s time to get started on the road towards exploring archery and bowhunting through hands-on experience. Don’t worry too much about finding the perfect arrow–the only way to find out what works best for you is to practice.

Remember: there is no perfect arrow for a compound bow. There are only the arrows that are perfect for you.

Ready to get started? Check out our article on buying a compound bow to learn more and start shooting.

Filed Under: Compound Bow

How to Find the Right Women’s Compound Bow

by thehoth

women's compound bow

Are there any differences between women’s compound bow and men’s compound bow?

We have the answer for you. Are you ready?

The only difference between women’s compound bow and men’s compound bow is… size. Everything else though? The same because women are just as capable at archery as men.

Mechanically, there are absolutely NO differences between a woman’s compound bow and a man’s compound bow. In fact, “women’s compound bow” wasn’t even a concept until a few years ago when more women started participating in archery.

Before that, most women simply bought smaller bows geared towards young adults. But thankfully, the archery industry wised up and created a market for women by making bows that are just as functional as men’s except a bit smaller.

Women’s Compound Bow

The steps to find a women’s compound bow and a men’s compound bow are exactly the same. There are three factors that you must take into consideration in order to choose the best compound bow for you.

1. Draw Weight

The draw weight is the amount of strength needed to bring a bow to full draw, or the position that the bow is in when someone is about to shoot an arrow. This is also sometimes called the “draw strength.”

The draw weight of each person is different and it depends on a lot of factors. It depends on the person’s size, arm length, fitness level, and experience. For women, these are the recommended draw weights calculated by average bodyweights:

  • Small frames (100-130 lbs) = 25-35lbs.
  • Medium frames (130-160 lbs.) = 30-40lbs
  • Large frames (160+ lbs.) = 45-55lbs.

If you are a beginner, most experts recommend a lower draw weight because you can always increase your draw weight once you build up your strength. Most compound bows have adjustable draw weights.

The problem with starting with a draw weight that is too high for you is it can ruin your experience, lead you to bad habits, and in some cases, cause injury. Every time you draw your bow, you are exercising certain muscles in your back and arm and over time, you will get stronger. But if you overexert force each time to draw your bow, you can cause damages to your arm and back in the long run.

A comfortable draw strength is one that you can hold your bow in full draw for a few seconds without exhaustion.

2. Draw Length

The draw length is the distance between the grip of the bow and the bowstring when it’s at full draw.

Draw length is important because it tells how far back you need to draw your string before releasing the arrow. Women, on average (not always) have shorter arms than men, which means shorter draw lengths.

To determine your draw length, simply follow these steps:

  1. Grab a partner and a measuring tape.
  2. Stand with your arms open wide (like you’re making the letter “T”). Don’t slouch but don’t overstretch either, you should be relaxed.
  3. Ask your partner to measure your arms’ length from one middle finger to the other middle finger.
  4. Take this number and divide it by 2.5.
  5. Roundup this number to the closest 1/2 inch and now you have your draw length.

When you have a bow with the correct draw length, you can shoot with more ease and accuracy. The correct draw length will also encourage good form.

3. Eye Dominance

Each person is naturally more dominant in one eye than the other. Although this is debatable in archery, it is generally recommended that you pick a bow that lines up with your eye dominance. This means if you are left-eye dominant but you are a righty, you will pick a left-handed bow.

This may sound strange to some of you but there are lots of reasons for why you should shoot on the same side as your eye dominance.

In order to determine your eye dominance, here’s what you need to do:

  1. Put your arms straight out in front of you and form a small triangle with your thumbs and pointing fingers (small enough that you can just peep through it).
  2. Aim the triangle at something specific in the distance (about 7-8 feet away.)
  3. Close one eye and see if you can see the object you picked through the triangle.
  4. Close your other eye and do the same.

Which eye were you able to see the object you aimed at? The eye that you were able to see the object is your dominant eye.

A small percentage of you will be able to see the object with either eye, in which case then, you can decide which side you want to shoot on.

Other Factors

Overall Weight of Bow

Most beginner compound bows weight somewhere between 3-6 lbs. It’s not a huge difference but if you’re practicing for hours each time, this can make a huge difference in your endurance and stamina. If you are a smaller framed women, you might want to pick one slightly lighter.

Arrow Speed

If you are a beginner, chances are, this won’t concern you much. But if you want to compete or hunt eventually, this might interest you. Arrow speed is calculated in feet per second or fps. The higher the number the better.

Choose Your Bow Today

A women’s compound bow is not much different from a men’s compound bow aside from the draw weight and draw length.

The recommendations here were determined by average women sizes and strength. If you are a smaller or larger woman, or if you know you have above or below average strength, use your judgment to pick something that works best for you. There is no shame in picking a smaller bow or lower draw weight because aptitude in archery is not about what you shoot with, it’s about how well you shoot.

Lastly, make sure you go to the store and test out bows in person. We can provide you with all the information in the world but without picking up a bow and feeling it in your hands, there is no guaranteed way to pick out the right bow for you.

If you don’t know where to start, check out our list of “The 8 Best Compound Bows for Women” and “6 Easy Steps to Buying the Best Value Compound Bow.“

Filed Under: Compound Bow

Review: The Best Compact Bow for 2018

by thehoth

compact bow

Well, 2018 is upon us, and as with all new years, we have a wide variety of different compact bow’s to choose from. Manufacturers have spoiled us this year with a variety of different choices bound to set any hunters eyes alight with envy and joy.

If you’ve been considering the purchase of a new bow, now might just be the time to put your hat in the ring and make a decision.

Archery is not only considered one of the safest sports but also one of the most fun. But many are asking questions. What choice do I go with?

Are better bows just around the corner?

Fear not, this article will answer all of your compact bow questions and before you finish this article, you should be in a position where you are ready to pick the bow for you.

Let’s get started.

1. Obsession Fixation

Kicking off the list is the Obsession Fixation. This compact bow stands out as it doesn’t feel like you’re trying to steer a mustang down a road that isn’t straight.

The Obsession features a new XP Cam which helps to make for a pleasing draw cycle, while still maintaining extremely fast arrow delivery. The redesign features hardier limb pockets, a stabilizing mount in the rear and a wider profile that you’d expect to balance worse than it does.

You’ll find that arrow-shooting speed aside, many compact bow owners want a bow that not only delivers an arrow fast but also looks cool. Obsession recognizes this and provides its bows with a variety of different camo patterns and string colors to allow shooters to customize their bow to their tastes.

2. Mathews TRIAX

Mathews has always delivered when it comes to great bows. The Mathews TRIAX is no different.

What Mathews always excel well at is ultra-quiet bows. These bows often get the best out of their cam systems which is why Mathews have delivered us the TRIAX.

The bow measures at 28 inches between its axels, it includes a six-inch brace height and features the revolutionary Crosscentric Cam system. This means it can send arrows downwind at a whopping 343 fps.

To get those speeds and still maintaining its quiet shot cycle, the 3D dampening technology of the TRIAX keep the three different areas of contact as quiet as possible during operation.

You should at least shoot a TRIAX before considering any other alternatives.

3. Hoyt Carbon Defiant

The Hoyt Carbon Defiant doesn’t only sound like the most badass bow in existence, it also delivers as one of the best overall hunting bows on the market. They have an amazing reputation for creating high-performance bow equipment.

When it comes to compact bow designs, they never spare any expense. The Carbon Defiant uses thermoset carbon which is hand-laid.

Why is that good? When hunting in low-temperature weather conditions the bow remains warm to the touch. Nice.

The bow is also engineered to have vibration reduction, and its accuracy is high quality while remaining rugged. The brace height sits at seven inches and can push an arrow out at 331 fps while remaining scarily accurate.

The Carbon Defiant also features dual cable stops which give the shooter the perfect consistency back wall. There has even been a zero torque cable guard system added by Hoyt.

This almost eliminates all torque and makes for even better accuracy. It also comes in a variety of different colors and setups, so you can personalize it to your needs.

4. Prime Logic

Prime decided with the Logic to produce their shortest ever bow, while still maintaining the use of its Centergery technology. What that helps to achieve is better bow balance, which centers the grip of the bow.

The Logic features split limbs to help accomplish this goal, which is a first for Prime. They also feature a set of parallel cams which are wider than any ever produced before by the manufacturer.

Prime also developed a new platform for the Logic. The brand new swerve riser features a unique curve designed to keep the top and bottom of the riser working in collaboration.

The Logic is a fairly short compact bow, so it comes as no surprise that the Logic has a bit more draw and rolls a lot harder than Prime models of the past. However, this is completely manageable.

You can expect to see all of the great shooting qualities you’d come to expect from this brand including:

  • Great Valley
  • Solid wall
  • Dead in the hand

With all of these features crafted together you can expect the Logic to be another stellar addition the the Prime lineup.

5. Bear Archery Kuma

It’s a mystery to me and many how Bear manages to create bows that are able to perform to the level they do, at the price they charge. Bear has some of the best bow deals on the market and the Archery Kuma is no exception.

If budget bows are your thing, Bear may just grab your attention. Coming in at 33 inches and 4.3 pounds, this bow is capable of producing arrow speeds of up to 345fps. It’s a wonder of creation with its Bear Cage riser, dual SonicStops and Shockwaves limb dampeners.

You can opt for either Badlands Approach or alternatively, you can go for the slicker looking iron finish. The model features a draw weight of 55-70 pounds.

6. SAS Rage

As with all hobbies, it can be difficult to afford the very top of the line products. There are a lot of people interested in getting into compact bow hunting, but when seeing the price tags are immediately put off by the idea.

For those who are on a softer budget, the SAS Rage can be just the model to spark your interest. Southland Archery Supply has developed the Rage, which aims to deliver a bow at an affordable price.

The adjustable draw length ranges from 26 to 30 inches and has a draw weight of 55-70 pounds. Coming in at a weight of 4.4 pounds it’s a bit of a heavyweight, but we don’t mind for its low price.

Take Your Compact Bow Hunt to The Next Level

With over 7.9 million archery practitioners in the US, archery is a very popular hobby.

If you want to try out archery for the first time or want more advice on the best bow to go for, check out our overall top 3 best compound bow review.

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